Was out in the barn at 6 PM trying to rush through this draft horse set, hit the weld wrong with the hammer, and the whole thing split clean in half - has anyone else had luck fixing a forge weld after it breaks or do you just start over?
Tried applying it thin with a brush instead of slathering it on thick like the old-timers taught me, and the hoof held moisture way better through a wet Kentucky spring - has anyone else found that less is more with sealer?
Ngl, I used to be all about glue-ons for my clients, especially on the fancy endurance horses. But after a wet season in Bend last spring, I had three sets delaminate within a week. Switched to Easyboot Gloves for a 50-mile ride and they stayed put through mud and creeks. Anyone else find glue-ons overrated for anything but show ring stuff?
I was driving home from a family visit near Lexington and saw a sign for a working farrier shop off Highway 68. Stopped in for 20 minutes and ended up staying 2 hours watching this old guy shape a shoe with a cross peen hammer I've never seen used that way. He showed me a trick with the anvil's heel edge to rough out toe clips in about 3 swings instead of the 10 I usually take. Has anyone else picked up a weird regional technique from just wandering into a random shop?
I swear I spend twice that long just getting the nails started because I keep using these cheap nippers that don't hold the nail straight, has anyone else found a brand that actually keeps the nail centered?
I thought I was invincible after 12 years shoeing, but a barn near Lexington asked me to do a full reset day on 45 head. By horse 30 my back was screaming and I missed a clip on a front foot that cost me a call-back. Has anyone else hit a number where you realized you need to cap your daily load?
I've been going back and forth between these two brands for like five years you know? Last month I finally grabbed the Diamond for a full set of four shoes on a draft cross. Man the bite is just different, it took way less elbow grease to get the toe squared up. Has anyone else switched rasps and noticed a big difference in how fast you finish a foot?
I was out near Ellensburg on a Tuesday afternoon, doing a trim and reset on a draft cross, and the front shoe just popped clean off while I was pulling the clip. No warning, just a loose shoe and a horse giving me the side-eye. I tried the old trick of bending the clip over a cold shoe with my hammer, but it didn't hold like it used to. Anybody else notice the newer steel doesn't bend the same as the stuff from 20 years back?
I used to do all my rasping by hand, it took forever and my hands would ache bad. Last month I finally bought a used stand grinder from a guy in Boise, and I tried it on a set of keg shoes. It cut my time from about 20 minutes a shoe down to maybe 8, and the fit on the hoof is way more even. Has anyone else made that swap and found a big time savings?
I picked up a used forge from a guy in Bakersfield thinking I got a steal. First fire up, the refractory cracked in three places and the burner wouldn't hold a steady flame. Lost $400 and two weekends trying to fix it before I just scrapped it. Anyone else get burned buying secondhand forge gear that someone swore was 'barely used'?
I was down in Ocala Florida looking at a buddy's new facility and walked past this one stall where a farrier was working. He was using nails that were way too big for the hoof and just banging them in without even checking the angle. The horse was already fidgety and I could tell it was hurting. I wanted to say something but figured it wasn't my place. Has anyone else run into work that just looked dangerous from the start?
Realized I was always too far forward on the hoof wall when a cranky draft horse nearly sent my rasp flying across the barn. Anyone else have a bad habit that took a near-miss to finally correct?
Been using Ibarra for like 5 years straight and figured they were fine. Then I tried a Diamond rasp a buddy left at my shop last month. The difference in how fast I can shape a hoof is wild. The Diamond just bites in without needing as much pressure, so my hands aren't as tired after a long day either. Anyone else notice a big jump switching between these two brands?
I spent 6 hours last weekend trying to get a clean finish on a tricky quarter crack case with my new tungsten rasp, and it just kept grabbing and tearing the hoof wall. My old Nicholson file does a better job for half the price. Has anyone else gone back to standard steel after trying the fancy stuff?
I finally broke down last month and bought the new Knipex hoof nippers after my old ones started slipping on the catch. They were $180 at the supply house near Lexington, which hurt at first. But I've used them on about 12 horses now and the cut is so clean compared to my old pair. No more having to go back and clean up the edges with the rasp. The handle grip is better too, my hand doesn't cramp up after a long day. I'm curious if anyone else has tried these or if there's another brand that holds up just as well for less money.
He told me he never uses a forge for anything but simple bends, said "hot shoeing every time just makes the hoof brittle." Made me think twice about how much heat I'm really applying on my normal days. Any of you guys use cold techniques more than you used to?
For 20 years I swore by kevlar pads for hot shoes, thinking they were the only thing preventing burns. Then a client brought in a horse last Tuesday with thin soles and I tried a leather pad with cork instead on a whim. Has anyone else found that leather lets them work slower and actually read the hoof better?
I was out at the Rock Creek Equestrian Center around 3 PM, horse slipped on a muddy patch, and the whole shoe just popped off - managed to reset it with that spare clip and some nails I had stashed since last spring, but has anyone else had luck keeping those truck kits organized so you don't lose tiny parts?
I thought I scored big on a 150-pound Peter Wright anvil for cheap, but after the first session the ring told me something was off. Took a magnifying glass to it and found a hairline fracture running through the heel. Has anyone else dealt with trying to get their money back from a shady private seller?
I was reading through some trade journal my buddy left at the shop, and it said the average farrier resets shoes every 6 to 8 weeks. That surprised me because I always figured it was more like 4 weeks, especially for working horses. I checked with a few guys I know and they confirmed 6 weeks is pretty standard unless the horse is on rough terrain. Makes me wonder if I been over-scheduling my clients or if that timeframe just depends on the breed or workload. Anyone else see different numbers in your area?
Last week I was out at a ranch near Denton, had this stubborn mule that wouldn't let me near his back feet. Figured I'd get clever and use my trailer's winch to hold his leg steady while I pulled the shoe. Big mistake - the winch slipped and the leg swung back hard, almost took my hand with it. Now I'm wondering, is it better to just send these jobs to a vet or is there a safe way to handle an animal that won't cooperate? Has anyone else dealt with a kicker that just won't settle down?
I been using the same $60 Nicholson for 5 years, figured anything cheaper was junk. But old Dale kept pushing this no-name rasp from behind his counter, said it was the same steel they used in the 60s. Picked one up for 22 bucks last Tuesday, and I'll be danged if it didn't cut through my first Clydesdale hoof in half the time. Has anyone else found a cheap tool that honestly worked better than the expensive stuff?
Had a draft cross with a clubby front foot that kept getting sole bruises. Switched to a rocker toe on the last reset and the horse is moving way better after 6 weeks now. Anyone else find rocker shoes help with short upright feet?