Check your grain direction before you make planing a habit. Running rail and stile stock flat through the planer can tear out on figured maple, and that tearout usually shows up right on the face you see after the doors are built. A better trick is to plane oversize, let the wood rest a day or two, then do your final fit. Wood moves after you cut it, so planing right before glue up and clamping tight can hide that movement for now but not forever. You might end up with doors that fit great in the shop but bind once they sit in a Boise kitchen through a dry winter.

One number is lazy. Switching mid drawing is the whole trick, and honestly it's not even about the settings, it's about slowing your hand down on the long stuff. I keep mine at like 80 for big swooping curves and drop it to 5 or 10 when I'm doing eyelashes or cracks in armor. You can't get sharp corners with a high stabilizer because the line lags behind your pen, and you can't get a clean arc with a low one because your hand shakes. Two months of practice is what actually fixed your lines, the brush just got out of the way.