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That thing where everyone puts darts in the wrong spot on button downs

Been tailoring shirts for friends on the side for about 2 years now. Kept seeing people move fabric from the center back or side seams when a shirt is too boxy. That's wrong. You need to pinch right under the shoulder blade at an angle toward the waist, not straight down. Tried it on 5 shirts last month and finally got a clean fit. Anyone else run into this problem?
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3 Comments
danielkim
danielkim6d ago
My buddy Mike tried fixing a button down last year by taking in the center back seam and ended up with this weird bunching around his shoulder blades. Looked like he was smuggling a baguette under his shirt lol. He asked me about it and I showed him your angle trick, pinching right under the blade at a slant. His next attempt actually lay flat against his back, no more weird fabric wings. He's been doing it that way ever since.
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the_william
Yeah I used to think the center seam was the way to go, but this makes way more sense.
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drewgonzalez
Hold up, is the internet really getting this worked up over dart placement on button downs? @the_william this is the kind of stuff you'd obsess over for like a week and then forget about. I mean sure it matters if you're tailoring for a living but for the rest of us it's just a shirt.
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